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Friday, 25 June 2021

Not spinning but splicing


As a person with little knowledge of textiles, but learning about them, I had assumed that the pictures such as that shown above, from a Middle Kingdom tomb at Beni Hasan (c.1900BC), showed the person on the right spinning linen from flax fibres. There are quite a few scenes of spinning using spindles in the pharaonic period. In more modern times, in spinning flax, the fibre is separated from the plant and then the strands of fibre spun together to form a "single". In order to strengthen the thread, two singles are then plied together. What is happening here, as in most other pharaonic spinning scenes is the plying of two already created singles. The person on the right holds two threads from two bowls, plying them together to make a stronger thread.

Spinning single threads does not seem to have happened at this date. So how did the ancients make long thin strands prior to plying? It now seems that for most of pharaonic Egypt linen thread was not spun in singles, but fibres joined to make a long thread by splicing.

You can see a demonstration of splicing done by Sally Pointer on nettle here (21 minutes in) , though flax would be spliced in the same way. 

From the same tomb scene, to the left of the plying woman, there appears to be a kneeling woman, whom I assume is splicing.

You can read more about the scenes here.


The Petrie Museum has some linen cloth from Lahun, some of which is spliced.

Now I have wondered if splicing enabled the Egyptians to get finer thread than by spinning singles. 

There is another aspect to this, with splicing the fibre doesn't have to be processed quite so much as it does with spinning singles. The bits of plant which are not fibre can be beaten out after weaving. Was this a job carried out by men? Perhaps the male 'washermen' whom we know from text, by the river were also fulling linen.

Just thoughts. Comments welcome.



The first picture is from a facsimile by Norman de Garis Davis in 1931. The second is a copy of the same, but enhanced to make it clearer (from Rooijakkers 2005).





Rooijakkers, T. 2005., "Unravelling Beni Hassan: Textile Production in the Beni Hasan Tomb Paintings" 
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 41 (Autumn 2005), 2-32.

Friday, 18 June 2021

Tents, Tombs and Textiles


Bronze Age Egypt was an international hub, exchanging goods and ideas with the Mediterranean and beyond. 

I have recently been reading an article by Elizabeth Barber. You can download it here: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/188080805.pdf

She suggests, quite convincingly that fabric from the Aegean was used to decorate tent interiors in Egypt in the New Kingdom (around 1500-1300BC). While we don’t actually have many ancient Egyptian tent fragments what we have are tomb ceilings, which show what you would see when you looked up (the other designs of stars seem to suggest that). We also have pictures of Minoan textiles fragments.

International links are close to our hearts at Swansea Uni.

Those interlocking spiral designs do look a bit Cretan. Is this a coincidence? What do you think?

Here is a close up of a Cretan textile.

You can find out more about it here:

https://www.penn.museum/sites/expedition/aegean-dyes/






More can be found online.


Here are some New Kingdom tomb ceilings:



TT51






And some more you can look at online:

Menna (TT69):

    https://www.arce.org/project/tomb-menna-theban-necropolis

    https://www.crooktree.com/p/33658bbf/915363019/egypt-egyptian-ancient-luxor-tombs

Kenamun (TT162)

    https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/548305

Google will bring up more

I am hoping to do an Egypt Centre discovering textiles series of talks and demonstrations. If you are interested and want to keep in touch with what else we do sign up here.

Reference

Barber, E. 1990. 'Reconstructing The Ancient Aegean/Egyptian Textile Trade', Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 593.